Welcome Back to Episode 4 of the Behind the Blend series!
We’re glad to have you join us again, and a warm welcome to all the newcomers! In this episode, we’re looking at phase systems, essential knowledge for anyone serious about cosmetic formulation. Understanding phase systems isn’t just a technical detail; it’s the foundation that can make or break your product’s stability and effectiveness. If you want to create formulations that truly deliver results, keep reading!
Why Understand Phase Systems?
Knowing how to effectively work with phase systems can transform your formulations. It allows you to choose the right ingredients and combine them effectively, leading to products that not only look good but also perform well. If you haven’t checked out our previous episodes, be sure to read EP2: Water-Based vs Oil-Based Formulas for foundational knowledge that will set the stage for today’s discussion.
What Are Phase Systems?
Phase systems are how we categorize and organize the ingredients in a formulation. Typically, these include an aqueous phase (water-based), an oil phase (oil-based), and sometimes additional phases. Each phase serves a distinct purpose and requires specific types of ingredients.
The Aqueous Phase
The aqueous phase is primarily made up of water and water-soluble ingredients. It acts as the foundation for hydration in your formulation. Common ingredients include:
- Water: The primary solvent that dissolves many other ingredients.
- Humectants: Ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid attract moisture to the skin.
- Actives: Many beneficial ingredients, such as botanical extracts and vitamins, are water-soluble and belong here.
Purpose and Function:
This phase focuses on hydration to carry other beneficial ingredients into the skin. A point to note here is that hydration is not the same is moisturisation. Hydration refers to adding water to the skin to increase its moisture content, while moisturisation involves creating a barrier to lock in that moisture and prevent water loss. Moisturisation is covered by the oil phase. When formulating, you should ensure that the aqueous phase is appropriately balanced to prevent dryness or irritation.
The Oil Phase
The oil phase contains oils and oil-soluble ingredients. It’s responsible for providing moisture and a barrier to prevent water loss. Typical ingredients include:
- Oils: Such as jojoba, almond, or coconut oil.
- Emulsifiers: Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or glyceryl stearate that help blend the oil and water phases.
- Lipids and Fatty Acids: These contribute to the emollient properties of your product.
Purpose and Function:
The oil phase helps nourish and protect the skin, giving your product a luxurious feel. The emulsifiers in this phase are also crucial for stability, without them, your oil and water would separate. We’ll cover emulsions in a future episode, so stay tuned.
Other Phases
Depending on the complexity of your formulation, you might also work with:
- Solid Phase: For creams or balms, often containing waxes or butters.
- Gel Phase: For lighter products, using thickeners or gelling agents like xanthan gum.
- Fragrance Phase: For added essential oils or synthetic fragrances.
- Colour Phase: For including colorants, such as pigments or dyes, they fall into this phase.
- Active Ingredients Phase: For concentrated active ingredients, like antioxidants or peptides, that provide specific benefits to the skin.
- Thickening Agents Phase: Used to modify viscosity, helping to achieve the desired texture and stability of the product.
Challenges in Phase Systems
While working with phase systems, you could face several challenges:
- Stability Issues: If the emulsifiers aren’t effective, the product can separate.
- Temperature Sensitivity: Some ingredients can break down or behave differently at varying temperatures.
- PH Sensitivity: Some ingredients can break down or behave differently at varying PH’s.
- Ingredient Interactions: Certain ingredients may not mix well together, which can cause instability or reduce efficacy.
Signs of Problems:
Watch for separation, changes in texture, or an unpleasant odour, which may indicate that your formulation isn’t stable or that the ingredients are interacting poorly.
By mastering phase systems, you’ll be equipped to choose the right ingredients, understand their roles, and know when and how to combine different phases. This knowledge can help you avoid common pitfalls and create products that not only meet consumer expectations but also enhance their experience.
If you found this useful, leave a comment or share and look out for our next article, EP5: Recommended Maximum Usage Rates, where we’ll dive into how to determine the ideal amounts of each ingredient to use for both effectiveness and safety in your formulations.
And if you’re looking for a simpler way to manage formulation calculations or ingredient adjustments, ingrevo is here to help. Our tools make it easier to maintain that perfect 100% balance, scale up with confidence, and keep your ingredients safe and effective.
Ready to take your formulations to the next level?
EP5: Recommended Maximum Usage Rates, where we’ll learn how to determine safe ingredient levels, tackle challenges, and understand key EU and UK labelling requirements.
If you’re eager to learn more, keep following along in this series!
